Everything You Need to Know About the Hiking Trails in the Cies Islands

Imagine turquoise waters and white beaches. Imagine a dramatic coastline with an explosion of natural colours. Imagine a peaceful paradise with a near-to-unspoilt landscape rich in biodiversity and vegetation. You can find all of this in a tropical archipelago in Northern Spain by exploring the four hiking trails in the Cies Islands.

My in-depth hiking guide will tell you everything you need to know about the archipelago and get the most out of the hiking experience. This will include an overview of its historical past and highlight places of interest along the four hiking routes. Understanding the archipelago’s culturally rich past and its character will enhance and lead ultimately to a more conscious hiking experience.

3 Top Reasons For Hiking the Cies Islands

1. Unspoilt Nature & Rich Biodiversity: the archipelago is of outstanding beauty and offers many activities. You can not only hike the Cies Islands but also snorkel, dive, stargaze and camp here. There are over 200 species of algae in the waters as well as corals. More than 7000 yellow-legged seagulls nest along its coastline and the archipelago is home to Spain’s biggest cormorant population. With all this richness and biodiversity, it is no surprise that the Cies Islands have applied to become a UNESCO world heritage site. 

2. Local Destination: the main clientele is locals, Spaniards and a handful of international visitors. I went in early June and found the islands at times completely to myself. 

3. Eco-Friendly Nature Park: since it’s been declared a nature park, the archipelago is promoted as an eco-friendly tourist destination. There are strict measurements in place to protect and preserve its wildlife and vegetation. Visitors have to keep quiet to not disturb any of the nesting animals on the islands. You also have to bring your own bin bags and littering is strictly prohibited.  

Sadly, some visitors did not adhere to the rules and during my stay, I witnessed many plastic wrappers and used paper tissues floating around. This is not only mega disgusting but also disrespectful. Please don’t be an ignorant travel snob and take your rubbish home with you. This includes even your droppings. Yes, I’m not joking. The islands only have a handful of bathrooms available so be prepared when nature calls.

How to get to the Cies Islands?

The Cies Island archipelago lies 14km west of the Ria de Vigo in the Atlantic Ocean. You can easily see the islands from Vigo on a clear day. There are two ferry services from the harbour that can take you over on a 45-minute crossing. Other regular services leave from Cangas and Baiona during July and August.   

You can either visit the Cies Islands for a day trip or camp overnight here. Camping is quite expensive (around 90€ per night & booking in advance is required) in comparison to the day trip ferry ticket at 15€. Costs are correct as of June 2022.

As the islands are a protected nature park, there’s a daily visitor cap in place. 2200 visitors are allowed per day which is regulated through an authorisation process. So, unfortunately, hiking in the Cies Islands involves some paperwork and preparation beforehand. Here are my instructions to guide you through the authorisation process for the Cies Islands:

• Go to the official Xunta de Galicia authorisation page 
• Select Islas Cies and press start.
• Choose your date (up to 90 days in advance) and accept the T&Cs.
• Fill out your personal information. Make sure you will travel with the EXACT same travel document its details you are providing. Renewed passports and European ID cards have new identity codes so do check beforehand that your travel documents are all valid at the time of booking and on your chosen date.
• Once sent off you’ll receive a confirmation in the form of a temporary authorisation number. You will need this number to book your ferry transfer. You have to do this within the next 2h otherwise the authorisation expires and you have to start the process again.
• Nabia and Mare De Ons are the ferry providers for the Cies Islands. The earliest you can go is with Mare de Ons at 9am and leave 8:40pm with Nabia (information correct as of July 2022); please note: you have to book both transfers with the same supplier 
• Once you’ve secured your ferry ticket and have paid for it, you’ll receive a voucher and an official QR code which serves as your authorisation. The QR code needs to be shown upon entering the vessel. Print the voucher and exchange it for a ticket at the Nabia or Mare de Ons ticket office at Vigo harbour. You have to do this as the voucher is not a valid ticket. 
• The ferry crossing will take 45 minutes from Vigo.

The Cies Islands Hiking Territory

The archipelago consists of three islands, covering 3091 hectares of which only 433 hectares is land mass. Its sibling archipelago Ons can top that with 470 hectares. 

The two main islands, Isla Monteagudo (North, Sharp Mountain Island) and Isla Faro (South, Lighthouse Island), are connected through a dike and the beach Praia das Rodas. Monteagudo covers 179.5 hectares whilst Faro covers 106.6 hectares. They are the main point for exploring and hiking the Cies Islands.  

The South Island has well-developed hiking paths which are easy to walk. Sometimes the path is tarmacked. Other times it is a well-walked natural path leading along the dramatic coastline. Overall the terrain is manageable and not challenging.

The North Island is much “wilder”. There are pine and eucal forests and the paths are mostly kept natural. The terrain can be uneven at times, especially on Route 3 to Alto do Principe. Here are lots of stones along the way and rock formations can get slippery, so be careful when you hike here. Hiking on uneven terrain gets tiring and it’s best to bring a hiking pole along. The highest point of the islands is Alto das Cies at 197 metres in the North. 

The Cies Islands have several small coves and three pristine main beaches: Praia das Rodas, voted by The Guardian as the best beach in the world (2007), Praia de Nosa Senora (South Island) and Praia de Figueiras or Beach of the Germans in the North Island. The sand is sugar-like and very, very white due to its high mineral content (quartz). Visitors are invited to relax, swim and sunbathe here, but are not allowed to remove any sand samples or shells. 

Weather-wise the Cies Islands enjoy a Mediterranean climate because of their low altitude. Clouds usually overcome the islands easily, but it can get foggy here. My best advice is to layer your outfit and bring a light raincoat with you.   

The Cies Islands have three “siblings”. Together they form the Islas Atlanticas de Galicia Parque Nacional Maritimo-Terreste: Archipelago Ons, Salvora and Cortegada. All of them can be visited, the last two by guided tour only. 

Please Note: the third island belonging to the Cies archipelago – San Martino – can only be accessed by private boat. 

A Brief History of the Cies Islands

When I went to the Cies Islands, information on their history was sparse. At the time of my visit, the marketing focused on promoting the archipelago as a tourist destination and its natural side rather than sharing much about its development. It felt like historical sites were completely neglected which is a shame as those actually make a place’s character.  

I wished I had known more about any historic developments beforehand and had hiked the area with this in mind. The archipelago is a unique destination worthy to be explored and I’d like you to get the best hiking experience for your trip in the future. 

The Cies Islands have been inhabited since the Bronze Age. A first settlement, most likely a Roman town, was recorded in 3500 bc. Today its remains, the Castro das As Hortas are valued as the most important archaeological find in the archipelago. The Castro remains are the wall structures along the slopes up Monte Faro and can also be seen from Route 2, A Porta lighthouse. If you’re interested in learning more about the Roman connection you can do so when you’re back on the mainland.

The museum in Pontevedra showcases a collection of Roman artefacts found in the Cies Islands. These include jewellery, ceramics, tools and other belongings. It is even possible that Emperor Julius Caesar visited the archipelago several times. 

Good To Know: the scientist Ptolemy nicknamed Cies the “islands of gods”.

In 899, King Alfonso III donated the archipelago to the Cathedral of Santiago. Therefore, the islands became the property of the Catholic church. Naturally, this attracted religious communities who settled in the Cies Islands. The 11th & 12th centuries recorded Benedictines, Franciscans and the Orden de Chuny. 

During their stay, two convents were built. San Estevo and San Martino. Both were destroyed by the Normans, bugger! Later on, the settlers introduced a feudal system and established crop and cattle farming on the islands.   

An idyllic paradise like that attracts the bad guys, too. Barbary, Ottoman pirates and Sir Francis Drake (1585) often attacked the archipelago and claimed their share of the paradise. Defenceless, the Church abandoned the Cies Islands. Today divers can explore numerous sunken pirates- and warships in the surrounding waters. 

Around 1810, the Cies Islands upgraded their protection with forts and artillery. Today, you can find the information centre and remains of a former artillery house on the site of the former San Estevo convent (South Island). There are also smaller jail buildings near Praia de Nosa Senora. 

Please note: the information centre has no regular opening times and they seem to be nowhere on display. The only information I could find was that it is only open in July & August. 

In 1840, two fish salting factories ran on the Islands but closed soon in 1900, due to their fierce competitors on the mainland. It was also in the same century that settlers built the concrete dike, a connecting pathway between the two islands. 

Going into the 20th century saw the rise of the islands as a nature reserve and popularity amongst travellers. In 1970/80s the archipelago was declared a national park and became officially a tourist destination. A handful of small, basic and simple constructions known as “popular architecture” still stand today and commemorate the Cies Islands’ former settlements.  

Good To Know: Jules Verne visited the area twice in 1878 & 1884. He placed Atlantis near the archipelago in his adventure novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. 

Hiking Trails in the Cies Islands

My hiking guide to the Cies Islands includes all four trails. Visitors can explore them easily within one day and cover approximately 19kms. There are two hiking trails in the South and two on the North Island. Upon arrival at the ferry pier in the Cies Islands, you’ll walk down a boardwalk and then have the choice to either turn left (South) or right (North).

Good To Know: if you’d like to ditch the school kids, turn right and explore the North Island first. The school kids will target the camping site on the South Island and then explore the lighthouse on hiking Route 1.

There is no circuit and the hiking trails in the Cies Islands are not interlinked with one another. The map may tell you differently, however, these shortcuts are closed off for protecting nesting birds. Be prepared to follow a one-way system and walk back the same way that you came.

Route 1: Faro de Cies Lighthouse Trail

Distance: 7.5km
Terrain: a paved pathway
You’ll love: spectacular views and a challenging ascent

Route 1 & 2 lead past Praia de Rodas and cross Lago dos Nenos via the 19th-century dike. The lake has many tidal pools and you can spot black crabs and fish within minutes.

You’ll walk past the camping grounds and an information centre. This centre was built upon the remains of the former artillery house and convent San Estevo. When it’s open, you can also visit the remains of a monk’s grave and see the ruins of the former convent.

Further down, the main pathway splits into Route 1 and Route 2 respectively. Route 1 follows all the way up to the lighthouse. Although manageable, this is a steep climb. The first half leads through a dense and shade-giving eucal forest. Those are Tasmanian blue gum trees planted in the 1950s and cover approximately a quarter of the Islands.

Before tackling the second half, there is a viewpoint to the right. Pedra da Campa allows for stunning views over the South Island to the North. There’s also a wooden hut for observing any wildlife and nesting birds.

The second half includes the ten winding slopes 175 metres up Monte Faro. You’ll be exposed for a good half an hour as there is no shade until you’ll have reached its top. The Castro das Hortas structure is still intact. It looks like a fortress, don’t you think?

Faro de Cies atop has a generous terrace-style layout. You can enjoy spectacular views of Isla San Martino and admire the wide-open desert that is the Atlantic Ocean. On the other side are views over the Ria de Vigo with Vigo and Cangas. You can’t enter the lighthouse.

Route 2: A Porta Lighthouse Trail

Distance: 5.2km
Terrain: natural pathway, coastal & flat
You’ll love: stunning views, secluded beaches and colours

If you continue hiking straight on after the split, you’ll walk towards Praia de Nosa Senora. The first left turn can take you down to Praia dos Bolos, the ending of Praia de Rodas. Here you may also see some of the former jail buildings from the 19th century which are now used as a small bar & restaurant. There is also the Islands’ former cemetery.

The second left turn leads you to the secluded cove of Praia de Nosa Senora. A boardwalk allows access to the beach with its white powdery sand and limpet studded rock formations. The water is azure blue but don’t let those intense shades fool you. This is still the Atlantic Ocean and the water may be freezing cold (16° C). Would you be brave enough to swim or snorkel here?

After your break, continue along the pathway. You will walk past Carnacido jetty and reach a coastal pathway. It might tire you out a little as it is stoney. However, the path is incredibly picturesque. Seamed with gorgeous yellow gorse, Portuguese crowberry and spiny thrift the colours make a perfect contrast to the blue of the ocean. Walk the pathway until you’ve reached its end. Here is another smaller lighthouse, called Faro da Porta.

Behind the lighthouse is a tranquil spot for a break. Enjoy the views over Isla San Martino or share your lunch with an ocellated green lizard. They are very curious little creatures who love to pose and show off their emerald colours.

Good To Know: the emerald lizard is endemic to the Iberian Peninsula. The population in the archipelagos is bigger than their relatives on the mainland because of optimal conditions. There are no predators on the isolated islands and an abundance of food.

I loved the second route the most. Not only was this an easy hike, but it was also enjoyable to look at the jetty and explore the beaches. The rough rocks are covered in Caloplaca lichen. The mustard yellow together with the blue skies and waters made for a wonderful contrast which kept me engaged.

Route 3: Alto do Principe Trail

Distance: 3km
Terrain: uphill, natural path and rock formations
You’ll love: a strong connection to Cies’ settlement past

Route 3 & 4 take you around the North Island. Both trails share 1km of the uphill-going way before splitting up.

Route 3 is the shortest trail but the most interesting as it has a direct connection to Cies’ past. Taking you to the west side of the island, you’ll experience lush and ever-changing vegetation. There are eucal trees around Praia de Figueiras and on the next bend, you are surrounded by lichen-covered pine woods. At times the scenery reminded me of Devon & Cornwall.

The trail is not steep but you’ll feel its ascent. Before you reach Alto do Principe (Tall Prince) there is a settlement ruin amongst the fern to your left. This used to be a shed for tools and belongings for the workers of the salt factories. Its annexe was most likely used as a granary and stable for cattle. The architectural style in the Cies Islands is referred to as “popular architecture”. This is a simple technique in which stones are layered atop without any binding mortar.

At the end of the pathway is a first viewing point. From here you can see Pedra da Campa and Faro da Cies in the distance. Scramble along the rock formations further uphill and you’ll have reached a second viewing point La Silla de la Reina – the “queen’s chair”.

The rock formations here have small shallow holes and were used for winning salt. These salt pans were popular during the Iron Age. Sea water was brought to these pans and the sun’s heat would vaporise it. Coarse salt remained which was then used to procure meat.

Good To Know: salt pans can be found all over the area e.g. around Viana do Castelo. So this was a popular and working technique.

Route 4: O Peito Lighthouse Trail

Distance: 5.6km
Terrain: flat natural pathway with a steep ascent to viewpoints
You’ll love: vegetation and views

The final hiking trail in the Cies Islands takes you to the furthest point. It stays close to the east side of the island with dense vegetation. This part is characterised by fern, eucal, pine and acacia trees. Have a look at the pinecones. They are as big as my hand!

Good To Know: most of the exotic species were planted in the 1950s and replaced the native tree Pyrenean oak.

There are two more viewpoints on the west side, Monte Agudo (182m) and Alto das Cies (197m), the highest point in the archipelago. By the time I got there, I was too knackered to do the ascent and instead chose to walk the final 500 metres to the lighthouse Faro do Peito.

Faro do Peito felt anticlimactic and not as spectacular as the main lighthouse in the South. The lighthouse is closed and there’s little space to move around as the final tip is narrow. There are no 360° views and it is a bit underwhelming. You can see Isla Ons in the distance.

Don’t Forget to check out the area behind the restaurant at the ferry pier. There is a small dune-landscape Punta Muxieiro and the secluded beach Praia de Areina. If you explore the left-hand side you will come to another smaller beach called Muxieiro. Here you can see the remains of a shrine that was built into a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Carmen. The shrine was originally made for worshipping Saint Joseph but was remodelled in the 18th century by Remigio del Mármol in neoclassical style.

Towards the North Island, there is Furna de Monteagudo, a sea cave which can be explored during low tide. You see, the Cies Islands are full of secrets and it is worth exploring away from the main hiking trails in the Cies Islands.

Additional Material & Hiking Maps

This is additional material that you may like to consult for your hiking trip to the Cies Islands.

• Ilas Atlanticas Map of the Cies Islands (in English)
• Ministry for the Ecological Transition and the Demographic Challenge Islas Atlanticas de Galicia map (in English)

FAQs about the Hiking Trails in the Cies Islands

I understand this is quite a lengthy post and you may have some quick questions about the four hiking trails in the Cies Islands. You can, of course, always come back to any section of my post and read in more detail what you’d need for your trip. If you have questions or need help, please get in touch and I’m happy to assist. 

What Is The Weather In The Cies Islands Like?

The weather is mild and is described as Mediterranean climate rather than Atlantic. Clouds easily overcome the archipelago due to its low altitude. However, the islands can get foggy. It’ll be best to dress in a layered outfit and bring a light raincoat along. I constantly changed my outfit, having started in a sunny and warm South and then needing my rainjacket for exploring the North. It can also get cold on the ferry crossing back to Vigo.

What Should I Bring Along When Hiking the Cies Islands?

I would strongly recommend bringing a hiking pole along when exploring the hiking trails in the Cies Islands. Some of the routes, especially Route 1 & 3, have ascents and need additional support. Take plenty of water with you. There are little to no opportunities to refill your bottles and the small supermarket may be closed. The archipelago is a protected nature reserve and requires you to take all your rubbish back home with you. Bring your own bin bags and some tissue for any bathroom breaks in the wild.

Are The Hiking Trails in the Cies Islands Solo Travel Friendly?

The hiking trails in the Cies Islands are very solo travel friendly. Spain, in general, is a very safe destination and the Cies Islands make no exception. As there is a daily cap regulating visitor numbers, it is most likely that you will be exploring on your own for most of the time. All routes are easy and manageable.

Thanks so much for reading,

Till next time. If you enjoyed this post and would like to support my blog & research, you can do so via Buy Me a Coffee.

Carolin

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