I wake up after a good night’s sleep and I’m excited for the day. This is my fourth day hiking the pilgrimage in Spain on the Camino Frances route. Although my feet are seriously battered and killing me, today promises to be a good one. The route covers Arzua to Amenal and I won’t travel alone anymore. Carole & Denise, the two British ladies who saved me on Day 2, are waiting for me in town.
Today’s Motto: Take It Easy & Slow
In comparison to the last couple of days, today’s hike won’t be as long. There are only 23km to the next checkpoint in Amenal. Even though the previous days have felt like a race with the other pilgrims, I sense that today will be rather relaxed. All set and ready I walk over to the main house at Casa Lucas. There’s already a buzz in the air and people are getting ready to leave. As promised, Lucas gives us a lift back into town.
He drops me off at San Francisco Albergue*, where Carole & Denise are staying. They are waiting for me and we decide to have some breakfast at Churrería “O’ Furancho d’ Santiso” on the main street.
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We order breakfast and whilst we’re waiting we’re discussing the route to Amenal. Carole’s daughter has accidentally booked them accommodation in Lugo, which is in the opposite direction of today’s hike. I show them on the map where Amenal and Lugo are and they agree, hiking there would be a massive detour. I suggest staying with me at my checkpoint in Amenal. They ring the place and luck is on our side! There’s a second room available for them. Carole & Denise also arrange for their luggage to be transported to Amenal and cancel their accommodation in Lugo.
Breakfast arrives and it was needed! Look at those churros, the cake, and the fresh orange juice! This is exactly what I needed after yesterday’s low point. We enjoy our coffees and take all the time in the world. I guess we’re super optimistic that we’ll cover those 23km easily.
The Pilgrimage In Spain Continues
It is cloudy but stays dry all day. For a change, the terrain is flat and leads through rural countryside and deep forests. We get lost at one point together with a group of Germans. The direction arrow got hidden under a thick hedge of ivy. Once we work it out, we’re back on track and the route continues through a forest for a while. We meet a Hungarian, who has set camp directly on the junction of the Camino Frances and Camino Primitivo.
“Roland” tells us all about his adventures trekking across Europe with his donkey. He’s done the Camino multiple times and the Via Francigena. He now enjoys stamping pilgrims’ passports and sharing his life story. The donkey is at present, recovering in Hungary. It is quite random but he’s a great storyteller. The donations from the sello stamping go into publishing his book.
We continue our hike and it is slowly approaching Midday. Carole & Denise are itching for a cup of coffee and I agree it is time for a rest. We stop at Casa Calzada, a cute, but busy place. Other pilgrims join us and it feels good travelling with companions today. Our break is quite long, but it is needed after the intensity of the previous days. Denise surprises us with a little gift. She’s bought us Camino bracelets to remember the trip when we’re back home in England.
The Via Francigena is another – less known – pilgrimage route in Europe. It connects Canterbury in England with The Vatican in Rome. The route leads from Canterbury to Dover, then through France, Switzerland finally Italy.
The Shortest Distance On The Pilgrimage Route
The next couple of hours fly by as we’re chatting and exchanging life stories. We have another short break after 3h and order a cheese platter to share. The area we’ve just entered is known for its cheese production so it would be rude to not try any of the local produce, right? Refuelled we’re making the final kilometers. We’re passing a quirky beer garden called Casa Tía Delores Bar Pensión near Outiero. Pilgrims are encouraged to buy a bottle of local beer and leave a message for other pilgrims. Sort of motivation and also an hommage to making an “I was here” statement.
My feet have both gone completely stiff again and every step hurts. Even though I feel fine and have the energies, my feet tell me not to move forward. I can’t wait to take off my hiking boots and spend the rest of the day in flip-flops. I drag myself along in pain and hope my companions won’t notice. I wouldn’t want them to worry or having to slow down for me. We make great progress and arrive at the guesthouse in the early evening.
The guesthouse is a beautifully renovated Galician stone villa managed by a local family. Juise and her son Ramon run the place so he gets a bit of work experience before he starts university. They give us a very warm welcome and show us around their massive garden. They also have a big sheepdog called Luha who’s super cuddly. We feel in good hands and check out our rooms next. Our rooms are modern and very clean. I can’t wait to take off my boots but today’s damage is pretty, pretty bad.
My Camino Frances Accommodation in Amenal
My checkpoint was Hotel O Pozo*.
I bruised my small toe so badly, that I’m sure, I will lose it. Both of my big toes are badly bruised, too. No pain no gain, right? I massage my soles and hope this will release the muscle tension/spasm. Then I run a cold shower to ease the pain. After a 30 minute break, Carole & Denise want to check out the small restaurant around the corner. So we’re back on the main Camino path and sit outside in the sun, enjoying a glass of wine. Other pilgrims are still on their pilgrimage hike and Gary, the American, makes an appearance too! This is the last time I’ll see him.
Back at the hotel, Ramon tries his best to make sure, we’re ok. His English is very basic, so he calls some of his friends over to translate. We’re all having a good laugh and learning from the local kids, what life is like in rural Galicia. They order takeaway pizza for us for dinner and the day is slowly drawing to its end.
Tomorrow is the final stage and we will arrive in Santiago de Compostela. The pilgrimage in Spain is coming to an end. It has been an incredible experience so far and I’m grateful, I’ve met Carole & Denise along the way. Without them, it wouldn’t have been as fun as it has been.
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Till next time,
Carolin
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3 Comments
Fashion and Frappes
15 November 2021 at 4:48 pmThis sounds like such an adventure. What I really liked is it well paced – you have the flexibility – you can go as slow or as fast as you want. Do you think a 4 day hike is the best option or would you have skipped some days you think?
SoloTravelStory
17 November 2021 at 12:20 pmIt was and I’m interested in doing a longer distance next year on the Portuguese way! The Sarria to Santiago is only 120km (rather short) but it is the minimum distance for you to walk to get the Compostela certificate. You actually need a full 5 days and I should have really planned it out for 6 as I wasn’t properly prepared and fit if I’m honest. Walking 30km is quite tiring.
Hannah S
10 January 2022 at 7:34 pmSounds like you had quite the adventure, even if your poor toes suffered!
I’m so glad to hear you met people on the Camino too. There are people who I will always remember as my Camino family – people who made the trio so much more special.
Love the beer bottle place too! And churros for breakfast – yum!