Ultimate Subotica Travel Guide: What Awaits in Serbia’s Prettiest Town

Here is my ultimate Subotica travel guide complete with personal recommendations, insights and a curated list of 19 things to do in Subotica. If you are a traveller drawn to Europe’s underrated destinations, then you shouldn’t sleep on Subotica in Serbia.

The small city near Serbia’s northern border with Hungary is characterised by an old-world charm, where everyone seems to know everyone, creating a safe and familiar atmosphere. Its compact size and relative isolation, partly due to ongoing infrastructure upgrades, lend it an almost timeless quality – perfect for disconnecting from daily life and immersing yourself in its rich cultural and architectural heritage.

Please note: prices are correct as of June 2024. Always make sure to double check and consult another source to avoid disappointment. Unfortunately my camera broke on this trip, hence why my coverage for the post includes images taken with my iphone. 

Disclaimer: my blog post uses affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. The link is clearly marked with an *. Thanks!

Subotica Travel Guide: Insights

I’ve compiled this ultimate Subotica travel guide with my personal insights to help you get a good idea of what to expect. I hope it makes planning your trip to Subotica a little easier and provides you with the necessary information: 

Subotica Travel Guide General Insights

• Similar size as Bruges, Klagenfurt, Leuven, Leeuwarden, Ulm, Maribor, Pisa, Mostar.
• Low costs for food & entrance fees, but definitely western rates for hotels
• Walkable, safe and well presented. The images on Google Maps don’t do Subotica any justice. The town is charming in reality. 
• Tourist Information is not too responsive if you reach out for details before your visit. However, once on-site the team is professional and lovely.  
• Some of the brochures and touristic material is outdated and not updated. The same applies to Google, so make sure to pin enough alternatives to avoid disappointments on-site. 
• Serbia has its own currency, the Dinar (RSD). It was difficult for me to exchange money beforehand, but I had no issues on-site. There are international ATMs by the Town Hall. Subotica is very affordable and costs for food and entrance fees are low. For my two day visit to Subotica, I exchanged roughly 100€.
• You might encounter some internet restrictions. I had trouble accessing the local bus timetables while in Germany, and once I arrived in Serbia, I couldn’t access Instagram. 
• Smoking is allowed in restaurants and cafes.
• On Monday, many businesses and sights are closed. 
• Szeged is the neighbouring city and both keep a strong friendship alive. The art nouveau project “Our Borderless Art Nouveau Culture”  testifies this. If you are in the area, I can also recommend visiting Szeged. 

Subotica Travel Guide Travel Insights

• It is not easy to reach the town and might not be the best destination for a weekend break. The best routes are either to fly into Budapest and then travel on the train via Szeged, or fly into Belgrade and take the new speed train line that runs via Subotica. 
• Travelling from Romania to Subotica will be difficult as there are no border crossings allowed. 
• There is also a bus from Budapest, however this connection runs only once a day at inconvenient times and I couldn’t access the Serbian bus information online. The web access is restricted on my end (I access from an EU country).
• The connecting train from Szeged to Subotica takes nearly 2h for a 50km journey. This is due to ongoing border controls. I hope with the opening of the new speed line, these will be dealt with electronically. 
• The border is marked with a huge wired fence, which was built by the Hungarians in 2015 to keep migrants out. It’s an eerie sight but nothing to get worried about. 
• Subotica lies in Serbia, which is not part of the EU or the Schengen Zone, but Europeans are allowed visa-free entry and can stay for up to 90 days. 
• Subotica gets a railway extension and a new station, hence why there are only 5 services to Szeged per day. The rail extension is built by the Chinese and will be a fast service connecting Budapest with Belgrade via Subotica. Forecasted to open at the end of 2024. 
• Subotica has more to offer than it meets the eye at first glance. Plan at least two days here to uncover some of its secrets. 

Subotica Travel Guide Accommodation Insights

• Subotica is small and therefore limited with accommodation options. In the end, I bit the bullet and booked *Hotel Forum Garni. My room rate was slightly out of expectations, but the room turned out to be huge with a kitchenette and a king-size bed. It was spotless and right in the middle of the centre. The hotel staff were sweet and looked well after me. I was even allowed to take a few things away from the breakfast buffet on my day of departure. 
• There is a 0.90 cent city tax in Subotica.

BOOK: Hotel Forum Garni* in Subotica.

Subotica Travel Guide: 19 Things to Do in Subotica

The top thing to do in Subotica is to enjoy its cultural and architectural heritage, particularly the fine Art Nouveau and Secession buildings, which I consider among the most distinguished in Europe.

While Art Nouveau heritage in cities like Oradea and Szeged thrive with restoration and EU support, Subotica’s architecture in some areas remains pretty neglected. The visible decay, however, adds an evocative old-world charm that continues to spark interest. Always make sure to keep your eyes open for the many small details around town, which often tell a huge story. 

Tick off all of Subotica Art Nouveau Buildings

Subotica flourished between 1893-1913, a period of peace and economic prosperity that marked the heyday of its architectural development. Prime examples of that era include The Town Hall, Synagogue, Raichle Palace and Savings Bank. 

These remarkable buildings are designed in the Hungarian Secession style, distinguished by its unique artistic language incorporating folkloric elements, mosaics and motifs such as hearts and floral ornaments. The designs are often highly intricate, with playfully detailed and colourful decorations that make this style so charming and enigmatic. It is borderline kitschy and has you enchanted in no time.

While Hungarian Secession originated in Budapest under the influence of its leading architect, Ödön Lechner, some of his admirers brought this metropolitan flair to Subotica. Marcell Komor & Dezsö Jakab, the Vago brothers, and Ferenc Raichle designed numerous masterpieces here, showcasing their creativity and quality craftsmanship that continue to engage visitors today.

TIP: Fetch a physical copy of the official Art Nouveau in Subotica brochure rom the City Information and start ticking off the list. 

Please be aware that some buildings, such as the Sonnenberg Palace, cannot be photographed as it houses the Hungarian consulate and discretion is advised. If the photography rules aren’t clear, always ask for permission to avoid any legal issues later.

Go on a Guided Tour at Subotica Town Hall

This monumental building, painted in a striking vintage red, dominates the city centre as both a landmark and a symbol of the town. Historically, three town halls have stood on the same site. The first dates back to 1751 but was small, requiring extensions in 1754 and 1781. A tower clock was added in 1828 before the current design replaced it.

The present Town Hall was built remarkably quickly, between 1908 and 1912, with two of those years dedicated entirely to its intricate interior decoration. Spanning 6,000 square meters, every detail inside was meticulously hand-painted. Its 76-meter-high tower features a viewing platform, making it a focal point not only for city administration but also for weddings, concerts, and graduation ceremonies.

Designed by Marcell Komor and Dezsö Jakab, the Town Hall showcases Freemason symbols on its façade, tributes to Maria Theresia – who was a notable supporter of the Serbs – and the distinctive glasswork of Miksa Róth throughout the building. The building has several entrances, with the main one located on the north side, noticeable by the impressive blue Zsolnay ceramic fountain in the square in front.

The guided tours are held on Tuesday till Sunday at 12 noon and last roughly 2h. The entrance and tower fee cost 300 RSD which is around 2.50€. The meeting point is at the grand entrance (by the blue fountain). I can highly recommend the tour, as the local guides are exceptionally friendly and making this walk around the building engaging and a true highlight of your stay.

Let Zsolnay’s Blue Fountain Enchant You

Whenever you travel in the Danube region and admire its architecture, you’re bound to encounter Zsolnay, the legendary ceramic manufacturer from Pécs, Hungary. Founded in 1852, Zsolnay became a leading supplier of refined ceramics across the Austro-Hungarian Empire, particularly known for their tiles. Their invention of pyrogranite – a durable, glazed material with an iridescent effect – earned them international acclaim, especially at the 1878 Paris World Fair, where their exceptional quality was awarded with the Grand Prix.

You can find these marvellous tiles on the Blue Fountain outside the Town Hall. 

Take a closer look and you’ll notice how their colours shift, depending on the angle of sunlight. Installed in 2001, the fountain is a modern addition to the city that perfectly complements its surroundings, adding a sense of harmony and enhancing the cohesive aesthetic of the area.

Go on a Free Walking Tour

This experience, offered by the City Information service, is indeed totally free and one I highly recommend. Since Subotica remains a relatively unknown travel destination, chances are very high that you might even have the tour guide all to yourself.

My guide was a friendly local who took pride in showing me around his hometown and entertained me with personal stories for nearly 3h straight. On our walk, we sampled traditional Serbian snacks at Mlečna Pijaca (the Farmers Market), uncovered local legends and examined seemingly small details with a huge story attached to them. 

One detail I found super interesting, was how certain architectural features were standardized across the Austro-Hungarian Empire and can be found throughout the region. During the Historicism period, decorative elements and design features were often catalogued, allowing clients to select from a pre-designed collection. This approach made it easier to replicate styles while still catering to individual preferences – but don’t be surprised if you find the same statues or decorations in other cities in the Danube Region. 

There is of course much more to learn on this interesting walk around Subotica. You can join every Wednesday, at 10 am, meeting point The Blue Fountain.

Learn More at the City Museum

Housed in the Miksa Dömötör building – a quaint example of the Darmstadt Secession style – this house first served as the residence of a wealthy physician before becoming the birthplace of Subotica’s printing press. The press operated here for 60 years before the building changed ownership several times, eventually being repurposed as a city museum in 2008.

The museum’s permanent exhibition explores early settlements in the Danube-Tisza region and chronicles various cultural shifts in the city’s development. It also hosts themed special exhibitions. At the time of my visit it showcased Fashion in Subotica, the history of the printing press, and Historicism in Subotica.

The City Museum is open from Tuesday-Saturday, 150 RSD. Plan for a 90 minute visit.

Check Out the Subotica Mural

If you are a fan of street art, you may want to keep an eye open for the Subotica Mural. The artwork from 2020 pays tribute to its architects whose work left their mark on the city as well as the outline of its most striking landmarks. It’s one of the nicer street artworks which I have seen during my travels and it is a delight to look out for it whilst you wander the leafy streets of Subotica.  

Enjoy Coffee and Cake

I was busy sightseeing and only went for coffee once at Patisserie Mali trg. I ordered my standard cappuccino and one of their coconut and mango tartlets. The quality was outstanding and on par with any patisserie from Paris. Plus, the interior was super cute. For coffee and tartlet I paid 6.50€ in total. 

Traditional coffee houses unfortunately no longer exist in Subotica, but there once was a neo-art nouveau café called “Papillion.” This unique establishment was the collaborative effort of a local entrepreneur and two carpenters who designed it in the floral Belgian art nouveau style. Papillion, which opened in 1989, was recognized for its high-quality craftsmanship and declared a cultural property of Subotica, thereby earning city protection.

Financial difficulties led to the lease not being renewed, and the café closed in 1998. The interior was dismantled in 2013 and is now stored, along with the original furnishings, in The Town Hall. In the meantime, the Jewish community made a restitution claim for the building that housed the café. Today, a casino occupies the space, much to the dismay of Subotica residents.

However, there is hope that Café Papillion might experience a renaissance once the restoration of the National Theatre is completed. It is rumoured that the café will be given a designated space, allowing it to once again enchant visitors with its beauty.

For now, there are plenty of alternatives that you can check out such as the Hausbrandt Caffe, Bodis & Porto, Momento, Thyme & Anamaria, Kinder’s Cake in Matije Korvina.

Admire the Raichle Palace

If you arrive by train, the Raichle Palace will be the first thing you’ll see when you leave the station. The palace is truly exquisite and deserves a visit inside, which is home to the local art gallery (since 1969). After your visit, relax at the cafe in the leafy backyard. 

Standing in front of the palace, you may notice two parts: the left hand-side of the mansion was originally a tenant house, which served as Raichle’s workshop. It is the older part of the ensemble. The main part on the right-hand side takes most of the plot, and was designed as his private home. The entire front entertains your senses with flowing shapes, Murano mosaics and bold colouring. The playful details pick up the Hungarian folklore motifs, such as hearts, wherever possible. 

Architect Raichle studied in various parts of Europe and came to Subotica in 1895. Here, he designed several one storey residential houses in eclectic style, before he dedicated all of his talent to his personal home. The aim was to erect a building so grand in luxury way ahead of its time and fill it with treasures from his travels.  

Raichle only enjoyed his residency for four years. His expensive taste and craving for high quality gradually sent him into bankruptcy. All of his artwork and luxury belongings were sold off at auction. Raichle then moved to Szeged and settled in Budapest for the remainder of his life paying off his debts. 

The Raichle Palace is open Monday-Saturday, 100 RSD (first Monday of the month free entrance). Plan for a 90 minute visit. 

Find the Smiling Face

Before Art Nouveau transformed Subotica forever, historicism reigned as the town’s popular architectural style. Neo-Baroque and eclectic designs dominated, gracing many residential buildings with specific elements and decorations. 

A notable architect of this era was local Titus Mackovic, who drew inspiration from his travels and studies in the DACH region. His works often incorporated unique elements, such as apotropaic sculptures known as “Neidköpfe” (envious heads).

These decorative grotesque carvings were designed to protect houses from evil energies. Depicting exaggerated features, grimaces, or frightening expressions, they were believed to repel harm and ward off malevolent spirits.

Two excellent examples can be found on a walk around Subotica. One adorns the corner of the tenement palace of Mayor Lazar Mamuzic (Ferenc Raichle Park 7), while the other is featured on Mackovic’s own family home (Braće Radića 4).

Marvel at the Synagogue

To this day, Subotica has a Jewish community. The first Jewish inhabitants were recorded in 1764, with an established community forming a decade later. By the late 19th century, the community’s aspirations culminated in the construction of a synagogue. Meanwhile, in nearby Szeged, the need for a synagogue led to a design competition. Although the design by architect duo Komor and Jakab placed second, it was eventually brought to life in Subotica due to a less enthusiastic entrepreneurial spirit in Szeged. At the time, limited resources demanded for compromises, thus not all materials used were of the highest quality.  But rest assured, the glasswork is of course Roth’s work and façade decorations as well roof tiles are Zsolnay finest.

After WWII, the Jewish community, significantly decimated in size, was unable to maintain the building, so it became the property of the city in 1976. By then the synagogue was declared a cultural monument and it was in desperate need for repair. Restoration efforts began in the 1980s but faced numerous interruptions due to challenges such as the Yugoslavian war and funding shortages. As a result, the process spanned more than 30 years. Finally, in 2018, the restoration was completed with substantial financial support from the Hungarian government.

The interior, adorned with hand-painted elements, features stylized floral motifs and peacock feathers, reflecting the charm of Hungarian folk art. It is a feast for the senses, sparking delight at every glance. The colour palette creates an extraordinary harmony, with shades growing darker as they ascend, symbolizing the Old Testament and the rising sun.

The Synagogue is open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday, entrance is 250 RSD. 

Meet the Subotican Olympians

Did you know that Subotica’s inhabitants are known for their active lifestyles and dedication to sports? I was amazed to learn about their achievements and participation in the Olympic Games. In total, ten locals have earned an impressive collection of medals, primarily silver and gold. To honour their success, a memorial fountain stands near the City Museum.

But that’s not all – Subotica has a unique historical connection to the Olympic Games. From 1880 to 1914, the city organized its own tournaments in Palic Park, predating the official Olympic Games launched in Athens. These games were led by Lajoš Vermeš, a school friend and roommate of Pierre de Coubertin, the founder of modern Olympism. This makes it fair to say that the Serbian games were a precursor to today’s modern Olympics. Unfortunately, World War I halted these aspirations, and Subotica’s potential as a sports hub faded.

Today, the legacy only endures at the site where the Villa Bagovljar, also known as the Owl Tower – the first Olympic hotel – now stands abandoned. Nearby, a monument to Vermeš commemorates his contributions to this remarkable chapter in sports history.

Look out for the Local Hall of Fame

If you’re into pub culture, this one’s for you. In town, there’s a local pub that commemorates well-known Suboticans who ventured out into the world and made a name for themselves. The pub is decorated from floor to ceiling with photos, portraits, and memorabilia. Since Subotica is a rather small town, it goes without saying that everyone knows everyone – or is related to one another.

Channel Your Energies at the Man in the Hole

Does this statue look familiar to you? You might have encountered its more popular twin, which resides in Bratislava. However, this sculpture in Subotica is the original and has a fascinating spiritual story attached to it. It caused quite a stir among the locals, as it was expensive and initially unpopular. Since the city is built on very sandy ground, the man in the hole serves as an energy reliever. Touch its head, and you can release all your worries and toxic thoughts into the abyss, where they are gradually carried away. This is why Subotica is often associated with slow and heavy energy fields.

Relax at Palic Park

In the late 19th century, the bourgeoisie boosted tourism through family trips and extended stays at spas and resorts, leading to the development of hotels, promenades, parks, baths, and piers. From the 1960s, elite spas like Vichy, Baden-Baden, and the Habsburg Monarchy’s Karlsbad and Marienbad flourished, alongside the rise of winter vacations and alpinism. While luxury spas gained fame, Subotica’s middle classes invested in the Palić spa near Lake Palić, catering to local visitors, as the wealthier bourgeoisie vacationed elsewhere.

The resort in Palić Park radiates elegance and charm. The beautifully maintained parkland creates a serene atmosphere, while the tranquil waters offer activities like boat sailing and swimming. Visitors can explore numerous architecturally fascinating buildings and enjoy the peaceful surroundings for observing wildlife.

Stroll along Kontor

The main high street features smaller shops, cafes, and more local architecture, predominantly in the Historicism style. Highlights include the Savings Bank (another Komor & Jakab design and one of my favourite buildings—look closely at the colourful ornaments and the charming connections to nature, such as owls, squirrels, and beehives), and the Golden Lamb Hotel (built in 1904 in Munich Art Nouveau style by Titus Mackovic). Pay also attention to the height and differences in the buildings, as they are an indicator for wealth and status.

Choose between Sun, Earth or Water

Liberty Square in front of the Town Hall may initially seem bland and overly large, but when you climb the tower, you’ll see it from a different perspective. The square was designed with sun (a clock), earth (the flower beds), and water (the fountain) in mind. The sun is meant to function as a sun clock, but in fact, there is a real one on the opposite wall of the Town Hall if you look up.

Keep an Eye out for the Tram

Subotica used to have a tram system but it was demolished in the 1970’s. There is however, one last tram to be found in town. It ran on electricity from the start instead of horse-drawn, therefore giving Subotica a modern advantage over other cities. It was replaced by a bus network which was cheaper to run and maintain. Many locals lament the loss of the tram.

Lost Places & Secrets of Subotica

During the walking tour, I learnt many secrets and legends about Subotica and was surprised how many interesting stories are tied to this place. Now that you have of course read my article you know about the man in the hole, George and the mysterious Papillion Café. Subotica is not as well maintained as Oradea and thus has a couple of decaying buildings such as the Town Tenement Palace (Liberty Square) and lost architectural treasures that should have been kept. 

For example, Raichle designed and built the first art nouveau residential houses in Vasa Stajic Street in 1899. These one story houses were homes to one bedroom flats. They were demolished in 2010 and replaced with a modern 1970’s block. 

Heisler’s Bath is another lost place, and its once-proud location at the corner of Petra Drapsina Street now stands empty. Originally built in 1921 as a sanatorium for rehabilitating war invalids, the bath underwent an expansion three years later, adding a public heated pool, sauna, and massage room. It became a popular spot for locals who lacked private bathrooms at home, offering a place for relaxation. After World War II, the bath’s popularity declined, and it began to deteriorate. Although restoration was needed, it was neglected and continued to fall into ruin. The building remained under the ownership of the city water supply company until 2000 and was eventually demolished in 2007.

Other Things to do in Subotica

The region is working to establish itself as a notable wine destination, featuring nine wineries around the Palić area. With over 300 years of wine-making history, it is currently experiencing a renaissance. Visitors can explore small, family-run vineyards and cellars, where classic wines like the white Kevedinka and red Kardarka are served. These exceptional wines can be found at well-regarded wineries such as Zvonko Bogdan, Tonković, and Reljić. While visits are welcomed, they must be arranged in advance. 

Subotica Travel Guide: Subotica Itinerary

Day 1 (Tuesday): Town Hall, Raichle Palace and City Museum

Day 2 (Wednesday): Free walking tour, Synagogue, Market Hall & Palic Park

Making of “Subotica Travel Guide”

• Traveled to Subotica on my own expense
• Researched on-site and collected various stories and materials
• Additional research through various documentaries, including The Lost Secession (in Serbian with English subs)
• Article on restoration works in Subotica. The Synagogue in Subotica. A Heritage Jewel Restored.
• The material was analysed, evaluated, and prepared for publication for this article
• Competitor analysis of existing Subotica travel guides and Things to do in Subotica content 

FAQs about My Ultimate Subotica Travel Guide

I understand this is quite a lengthy post, and you might have some quick questions about my ultimate Subotica Travel Guide. You can, of course, always return to any section of my post for more detailed information on what you’ll need for your trip. If you have questions or need assistance, please feel free to get in touch, and I’ll be happy to help.

Is Subotica worth a visit?

Subotica is rated as Serbia’s prettiest town for a reason. The unique architecture is worth the long travel time alone. Add to that a friendly environment, great food and a less touristic feel and you get a great picture of what it’s like in Subotica. For your trip I suggest two full days. 

Is Subotica solo travel friendly?

Absolutely! The locals may not be too fluent in English but they certainly are hospitable and generous. I experienced a welcoming and positive atmosphere throughout my entire stay. I had no issues at all. Got seated in restaurants without hesitation and I was not harassed for once. 

Thanks so much for reading. If you’ve enjoyed my ultimate Subotica Travel Guide and would like to support my blog & research, you can do so via Buy Me a Coffee.

Till next time,

Carolin

You may also enjoy my other Eastern European content: 

• My Ultimate Eastern Europe Itinerary around the Danube Region
• Complete Oradea Travel Guide: 15 Things to do in Oradea
• 3 Week Itinerary For An Epic Baltics Tour & Finland Trip