My Ultimate Eastern Europe Itinerary around the Danube Region

This summer I spent 2 ½ weeks travelling around the Danube region and am pleased to share my Eastern Europe itinerary 2024. My Eastern Europe tour covered over 2700 km and included four art nouveau cities. I hope you will find the insights and experiences provided encouraging for your planning and travel inspiration. 

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My Eastern Europe Itinerary Preparations

Please note: my entire Eastern Europe itinerary focuses mostly on the travel to Oradea in Romania and Subotica in Serbia. My stop in Budapest served purely the purpose to have a base and made onward travel to the respective cities convenient. Budapest in Hungary is not Eastern Europe, but geographically classed as Central Europe. Same with Vienna. I did include it for this Eastern Europe Itinerary though, as it was part of the entire trip and I want to provide transparency in how I started and ended the planned tour. No offence is intended.

My Eastern Europe Itinerary is focused entirely on visiting cities in the Danube region and viewing art nouveau buildings. Some of the chosen destinations were harder to reach due to limited infrastructure, but I was up for the adventure.

In typical Carolin style, I planned my entire Eastern Europe itinerary six weeks in advance. I started with compiling my top destinations and which activities I wanted to experience. This research is vital for me as it determines how many days I plan for each destination.

I set roughly 2 to 3 days per city aside plus travel time and created “Things to do” lists, which didn’t follow a strict plan by the minute but would give me alternative options and enough sights to check out. When I travel, I keep a focus on coffee culture, Leipzig & Camino connection as well as art nouveau architecture. 

Next, I looked at travel between the Eastern European cities and how well they were connected. It became clear that some destinations will be hard to reach this summer, due to ongoing train network expansions and I may lose quite some time to actual travelling. For this trip, I lost 4 days travelling by train and bus, which is quite a lot. Unfortunately, the infrastructure beyond Budapest is in desperate need of fixing and border crossings with passport checks are still in place. Most travel days started extremely early for me as the current options were so limited and allowed for little flexibility. Meticulous planning and considering a Plan B had to be in place, in case for emergencies (e.g. missed connections).

Once I had convenient travel dates, I booked the accommodation, bus & train tickets and activities. 

Observations travelling in Eastern Europe 

• Travel beyond Budapest is adventurous.
• The summer weather was typical for the Danube region: stuffy, hot with a thunderstorm in the evening. Rinse and repeat the next day.
• Travel by bus or train is not as expensive as in central Europe.
• Manicured cities with a laid-back character.
• Touristic Offering is still very focused on local tourism and may cause some disappointment for international travellers.
• Outdated information on accommodation and restaurants on Google Maps. It has happened a few times that places no longer exist. I take it since the area is not frequently visited and the information is not as regularly updated.
• Subotica and Oradea are not suitable weekend trip options, as reaching these cities may take some extra time due to the lack of infrastructure. 
• Cash is preferred over card payments. 

Eastern Europe Itinerary First Stop: Oradea, Romania

Oradea, known as the “prettiest town” in Romania, has recently finished restoring its historic buildings. The heritage buildings are mostly in baroque and art nouveau style and delight visitors with their colourful, neat appearances and highly artistic decorations. There are far too many buildings to list them all but highlights not to be missed are The Black Eagle Palace, Füchsl Palace, Hotel Astoria, Poynar House, Stern Palace, Apollo Palace, Moskovits Palace and Rimanoczy Sr Palace. The town’s character is laid-back with many modern cafes and eateries. You can enjoy your summer holidays here at a very low cost.   

What’s THE top thing to do in Oradea?

The top thing to do in Oradea is to admire the architecture and explore the rich heritage. There are approximately 50 historic buildings which were extensively restored. Oradea is not UNESCO-certified (yet), but is part of the prestigious Reseau Art Nouveau Network. Therefore, it is known to a niche audience interested particularly in architecture. However, I found Oradea delightful and worth visiting even if you aren’t into historic buildings.

The fortress, which signifies Oradea’s origins and functions today as the City Museum and events venue, is also not to be missed. At its core stands a cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary which the rest of the fortress revolves around. Oradea used to be Romania’s religious centre and has an array of Churches from various religious communities still living in Oradea today. 

Eastern Europe Itinerary: Oradea Timeline

Day 1: Extended architecture walk around Oradea city centre, coffee and food
Day 2: Darvas House, tower views, fortress visit
Day 3: Synagogue, river walk, Baroque Palace & Roman-Catholic Church

READ MORE Complete Oradea Travel Guide: 15 Things to do in Oradea

Did you know? The reason why Oradea has such a high concentration of art nouveau buildings is due to several coincidences which fell into the same period. In 1836, a fire destroyed many parts of Oradea making it a blank canvas for architects trained in the Secession style to redesign and give the city a new face. Oradea had a thriving and wealthy Jewish community amounting to ⅓ of the city’s population. As part of the rising bourgeoisie, they were in the financial position to express their social status through elaborate residential and refined institutional buildings. 

Coffee Culture in Oradea: oh, you will not be disappointed with the coffee and brunch culture in Oradea. There are many cool cafés serving specialty coffee. The quality is high and a cup will never cost you more than 2€. I have not had a single bad encounter.

Find out more in my extensive Oradea Coffee Guide: Let’s find the Best Cafe in Town

Where to stay in Oradea

The hotel options were rather limited, with many outdated business hotels to choose from, making the selection process challenging. After searching for a while, I decided on a room at Central Parks Rooms, operated by FlatWhite Properties. My stay was incredible. The flat was immaculate and modern with a light and stylish design and all the amenities I needed. While some of their flats include a small kitchenette, I opted for a room without, as Oradea’s food mile Strada Vasile Alecsandri was conveniently located just around the corner. The team at FlatWhite Properties was responsive and quickly addressed any requests I had, making me feel well taken care of.

Oradea charges no city tax, but the accommodation provider may have to register guests with the City administration. You simply share a copy of your passport, and your accommodation will do the registration for you. 

BOOK: *Central Park Rooms in Oradea

What else is there to know about Oradea before I move on with my Eastern Europe Itinerary?

• Trains to Oradea are limited this summer, as there is construction work in the direction of Budapest. The city has an airport, but there are only a handful of flights per day and connections are limited.  
• The bus station is in a residential area and about a 2kms walk away from the city centre. You can walk it in the daytime, but I wouldn’t do so in the evening or rain. 
• The main languages are Romanian and Hungarian. English is spoken on a basic level, but everyone I met was friendly and helpful. 
• Make sure to fetch some local pastries from Dessertopia. I can highly recommend their pistachio cream-filled croissants. 
• Unfortunately, the touristic offering is very limited to local tourism and caters not yet too well to an international audience. There is no physical tourist information in the Old Town and prior requests have been answered poorly. 

Eastern Europe Itinerary Second Stop: Budapest, Hungary

Back to Central Europe for a day or two and prepare for the next stage of the trip. There is no doubt that Budapest and Vienna are twin cities. Like its sibling, Budapest is grand, honouring its deep ties to its imperial past and keeping a traditional coffeehouse scene. Café New York exudes old-world glamour, as do many of the city’s iconic heritage buildings, in particular, Ödön Lechner’s legacy works such as the Postal Savings Bank, The Geological Institute or The Museum of Applied Arts. Budapest never pretends to be something it’s not. It reveals its true character as you roam its streets, where decay and heritage preservation coexist in stark contrast. Make sure to visit the majestic parliament. This impressive palace sits prominently by the mighty Danube River, and seeing it in person for the first time is a true “pinch me” moment. 

What’s THE top thing to do in Budapest?

A visit to The Parliament is a must-do in Budapest. Ranked 6th among the most visited UNESCO sites worldwide, it offers tours every half hour, allowing for a one-hour stay. The tour is incredibly fascinating, taking you through the grand entrance hall, the Holy Crown of Hungary, the parliament chambers, and the meeting rooms. The building is lavishly decorated with floral embellishments and animal symbols, embodying style, grace, and power. I was deeply impressed by how much I enjoyed learning about its history and operation.

Many travellers highly recommend a tour of the Ruin bars, but since I’m not into the drinking culture, I’d like to share another activity that I believe is excellent for getting to know Budapest: a self-guided walking tour of the Art Nouveau buildings. I researched a few architectural icons and designed my own route, which took me through various districts away from the city centre. This tour gave me a deeper connection to Budapest. The architectural styles ranged from Hungarian Secession to Italian Art Nouveau, and I also noticed a strong presence of Northern/Baltic influences.

Top Tip: When planning your visit to The Parliament, I recommend securing a ticket online in advance. Tickets for EU residents are available at a discounted price of 15€. The Parliament offers timed tours in various languages, so be sure to book a tour in your native language. Additionally, self-guided tours with an audio guide that runs automatically as you move around the building are available. However, these self-guided tours cannot be booked online and are subject to availability on the day of your visit.

I wasn’t aware of the self-guided tours, and since The Parliament is the most popular attraction in Budapest, I wanted to play it safe and booked a ticket for a Hungarian tour. The onsite staff were strict about not switching the audio guide’s language from Hungarian. Fortunately, I wasn’t the only foreigner keen on seeing the building. A German visitor who spoke fluent Hungarian approached a higher-ranking staff member, and they were able to reconfigure the audio guides to German and English without any issue. 

Top Tip: If it is raining buckets in Budapest, you can spend your time at the central market hall. My guide on How to navigate the Central Market Hall in Budapest can help you finding the best Hungarian souvenirs.

Eastern Europe Itinerary: Budapest Timeline

Day 1: Explore Buda & Pest side including The Fisherman’s Bastion for best views of the city, castle, traditional coffeehouse Gerbeaud or New York & Dobos cake, The Basilica and Parliament area. Have a Langos on the way.
Day 2: Self-guided art nouveau walk including a visit to the György Ráth Villa or Roth Museum (8h)
Day 3: Visit to the Parliament, Postal Savings Bank rooftop, souvenir shopping at Great Market Hall and Fuga

Coffee Culture in Budapest: Since my trip to Tallinn last year, where I visited an exhibition on coffee culture in Budapest, I was confident that the city wouldn’t disappoint when it came to coffee. As a former Habsburg city, Budapest has a rich history of coffee culture. You can find traditional coffee houses scattered throughout the districts, as well as numerous third-wave modern cafes offering excellent coffee.

During my stay, I visited Café Gerbeaud and had a fabulous time. I ordered Dobos cake, the Hungarian equivalent of Vienna’s Sacher cake, along with coffee. My waiter gifted me a small booklet detailing the cafe’s interesting history. It was a lovely experience, and I look forward to visiting again.

Where to stay in Budapest

Initially, I wasn’t thrilled with my accommodation since it was located in the lively nightclub district. However, my room was stylish, clean, and despite the noise, I managed to get enough sleep. The music was great, the check-in process was handled via an app, and the location was both central and very safe. For my next visit to Budapest, I might consider staying in the area around the Basilica and the Parliament.

If you’d like to know where I stayed, here it is *Bazaar Boutique Residence Budapest. Apologies for not sharing pictures of the accommodation, but my camera broke on Day 5 of the trip and my phone’s storage had limited capacity.

What else is there to know about Budapest before I move on with my Eastern Europe itinerary?

• The tourist information does not provide information, they purely sell their sightseeing tours. When I asked for promotional material on art nouveau or even a small city guide, I was harshly told to “go to the bookstore and pay for it”. Do not waste your time or energy here, you will not get local recommendations or any useful insights. 
• The available material about Budapest in English is limited. You can get standard touristic multi-language guides but e.g. books on architecture were a big stretch.
• Last year, Budapest released a promotional brochure 150 Budapest: Birth of a Metropolis, which no longer exists in physical copy, but you can consult the digital version for your trip preparation. I also found We Love Budapest to be a reliable and cool resource for Budapest insights.
• The Hungarian and Finnish language come from the same language family, but they are inherently different.
• There is a 15% service charge in restaurants and dinners are already pricey. 
• Unfortunately, Budapest has a reputation for scamming and conning tourists, which I can confirm. Some businesses are very creative and deceiving, e.g. a “free” cat museum (it’s a cat-centric bookstore) or a “free” coffee and brunch exhibition (aka a brunch restaurant). Cheeky!
• The Great Market Hall is amazing, but a huge labyrinth. Make sure to have enough time there. It is closed on Sundays. 

Eastern Europe Itinerary Third Stop: Subotica, Serbia

Nestled in the Pannonian Plain, between the Danube and the Tisza River, Subotica is a sleeping beauty just waiting to be discovered by the world. As a member of the Reseau network also, it is home to many unique art nouveau buildings in the Hungarian Secession style. Highlights include the Town Hall, the synagogue, the Raichel Palace and the extensive spa resort in Palic Park. But there’s more: beneath the dark, leafy streets of Subotica, linger even more secrets and surprises waiting to be discovered. Despite the challenges that the journey brought with it, I have no regrets, because Subotica far exceeded all of my expectations.

What’s THE top thing to do in Subotica?

The top thing to do in Subotica is to sightsee and admire the art nouveau heritage, including a guided tour at The Town Hall, the Hungarian Bank, Raichel Palace, the Synagogue, the city museum and relaxing in Palic Park. Although Subotica is smaller than Oradea, it can keep up with its impressive art nouveau architecture. The collection of historic buildings is stunning. All of them are adorned with elaborate façade decorations and subtle colours playing with the imagination of their admirers. The Town Hall, the Synagogue, the city museum and the Raichel Palace can be visited and viewed from the inside. 

There is also the opportunity to join a free walking tour around the town. And with next to no visitors, you’ll likely get a private tour. 

Town Hall tour including the tower: Tuesday to Sunday at 12 o’clock noon, meeting point is the main entrance. 400RSD | 3.50€

Free walking tour: every Wednesday at 10 am, meeting point is the Blue Fountain at The Town Hall

Eastern Europe Itinerary: Subotica Timeline

Day 1: Town Hall, Raichel Palace and City Museum (Dömötör Miksa building)
Day 2: Free walking tour, Synagogue, Market Hall & Palic Park

Coffee Culture in Subotica: I was busy sightseeing and only went for coffee once at Patisserie Mali trg. I ordered my standard cappuccino and one of their coconut and mango tartlets. The quality was outstanding and on par with any patisserie from Paris. Plus, the interior was super cute. For coffee and tartlet I paid 6.50€ in total.

Traditional coffee houses no longer exist in Subotica, but there once was a neo-art nouveau café called “Papillon.” This unique establishment was the collaborative effort of a local entrepreneur and two carpenters who designed it in the floral Belgian art nouveau style. Papillon, which opened in 1989, was recognized for its high-quality craftsmanship and declared a cultural property of Subotica, thereby earning city protection.

Unfortunately, financial difficulties led to the lease not being renewed, and the café closed in 1998. The interior was dismantled in 2013 and is now stored, along with the original furnishings, in The Town Hall. In the meantime, the Jewish community made a restitution claim for the building that housed the café. Today, a casino occupies the space, much to the dismay of Subotica residents.

However, there is hope that Café Papillon might experience a renaissance once the restoration of the National Theatre is completed. It is rumoured that the café will be given a designated space, allowing it to once again enchant visitors with its beauty.

Where to stay in Subotica

Subotica is small and therefore limited with accommodation options. In the end, I bit the bullet and booked *Hotel Forum Garni. My room rate was slightly out of expectations, but the room turned out to be huge with a kitchenette and a king-size bed. It was spotless and right in the middle of the centre. The hotel staff were sweet and looked well after me. I was even allowed to take a few things away from the breakfast buffet on my day of departure. 

There is a 0.90 cent city tax in Subotica.

What else is there to know about Subotica before I move on with my Eastern Europe Itinerary?

• The connecting train from Szeged to Subotica takes nearly 2h for a 50km journey. This is due to border controls. 
• The border is marked with a huge wired fence, which was built by the Hungarians in 2015 to keep migrants out. It’s an eerie sight. 
• Subotica lies in Serbia, which is not part of the EU or the Schengen Zone, but Europeans are allowed visa-free entry and can stay for up to 90 days. 
• Subotica gets a railway extension and a new station, hence why there are only 5 services to Szeged per day. The rail extension is built by the Chinese and will be a fast service connecting Budapest with Belgrad via Subotica. Forecasted to open at the end of 2024. 
• Subotica has more to offer than it meets the eye at first glance. Plan at least two days here to uncover some of its secrets. 
• Szeged is the neighbouring city and both keep their friendship alive. The art nouveau project of both cities “Our Borderless Art Nouveau Culture” strengthened their bond.

Eastern Europe Itinerary Final Stop: Vienna, Austria

Technically not Eastern Europe, but part of my trip nonetheless, I made a stop in Vienna on my way home. Vienna needs no introduction, and I can’t hide how much I love and adore this city. This was my fourth visit, and I came with a long list of things to do that kept me busy non-stop. This time, I had a free guided tour at The Town Hall, visited the Loos apartments, Leopold Museum, Ernst Fuchs Villa, Otto Wagner’s Church on Lemoniberg, and The Secession. I also revisited many of my favourite spots, including Prater, Ringstraße, and Mariahilfer, and enjoyed coffee at Postsparkasse. During my stay, the city was buzzing with celebrations for Pride, the Night of Open Churches, a free summer concert at Schönbrunn, and the reopening of the Art Gallery Mumok – and this is exactly why I love Vienna. 

What’s THE top thing to do in Vienna?

Top experiences in Vienna are its imperial past, including the Hofburg, Sisi Museum, Kaisergruft, Treasury and the Spanish Riding School. But also a spin on Prater amusement park and indulging in its UNESCO-certified coffee culture are a huge pull for visitors. As a returnee, I skipped these traditional sights and prioritised a few more local activities and Vienna 1900 art this time.  

For this visit, I wanted to experience a few activities which aren’t hugely promoted by the city as they are free:

The Town Hall: visitors and locals can get a free guided tour through the impressive building, which is a replica of the Brussels Town Hall. The tours operate on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 1 pm, but tickets are limited to 50 per day. To have the best chance of getting a ticket, one has to arrive early in the morning and fetch it from the City Information desk (entrance Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1).

Loos Apartments: Adolf Loos, a renowned Viennese architect, designed a private flat for the businessman Friedrich Boskovits at Bartensteingasse 9 in 1907. The flat is exquisitely decorated with original furnishing and a show-stopping fireplace in the dining room. Information plates provide historical context and guide through the exhibition. Guided tours operate every first Thursday of the month, 1-7 pm and upon request.

The Postsparkasse: Vienna’s architectural pride, Otto Wagners Postsparkasse near Schwedenplatz, now operates as the House for Art and Science under new ownership. The historic building is open to visitors, who can enjoy coffee in the grand cashier’s hall or join a free guided tour. These popular tours require advanced booking and are limited to a small number of visitors to protect the delicate nature of the house. The owner requests discretion to avoid a mass influx of tourists. Café Exchange opening times: Mo to Fri 10-6 pm.

New Vienna City Museum: Vienna opened a brand-new city museum at Karlsplatz and the best bit about it: it is completely free. The exhibition is huge and so well curated. The ground floor starts with the former build of the city wall, as well as Vienna’s rapid growth and expansion. The second floor is all about The Habsburg Monarchy and The Ringstraße which required a huge restructuring of the city. The third floor focuses on Vienna 1900, a prime time and Golden Age of Secession, art and Vienna’s greatness. All floors feature a gigantic model of Vienna and numerous well-curated artefacts. Find also a sun terrace, café and spaces for special exhibitions.

Eastern Europe Itinerary: Vienna Timeline

Day 1: Loos Apartments, coffee and guided tour at Postsparkasse, New Vienna City Museum, Prater
Day 2: Ernst-Fuchs Villa, Wagner’s Church at Lemoniberg & Sanatorium, Hitzinger Pavillion
Day 3: Leopold Museum, Architekturzentrum, Fillgraderstiege & Linke Wienzeile for Wagner’s Majolika House
Day 4: Tour at Town Hall, stroll on Mariahilfer Straße, rest day
Day 5: The Secession, apple strudel in Schönbrunn, walk around Augarten including Flak Tower & Porcelain Factory, Prater, MAK (half price and long opening till 9pm on Tuesdays)
Day 6: Rest day, including coffee & cake, cinema

Coffee, Camino & Leipzig Connection

Coffee Culture in Vienna: I have already written extensively about Vienna’s coffee culture and can still confirm it is top notch. I have added a few new cafés to my guides and updated my content. 

READ MORE: How Authentic are Coffee Houses in Vienna Today?

READ MORE: Big Travel Guide to Brunch & Modern Cafes in Vienna

Leipzig Connection: I’ve always felt that Leipzig and Vienna share a similar cultural vibe but could never pinpoint an actual connection between my two favourite cities. Finally, I’ve found the link.

The Beethoven Frieze at The Secession is one of Klimt’s major works, celebrating Beethoven’s 9th Symphony in a new artistic form. The room that houses the Frieze once featured a statue of Beethoven seated in a chair. This sculpture, created by Leipzig sculptor Max Klinger, was crafted for the opening of The Secession in 1902. Though it was believed to be lost during the demolitions of WWII, it fortunately survived. While I don’t know all the details yet, the Beethoven sculpture was eventually sold to the City of Leipzig and is now on display at The Museum of Applied Arts in Leipzig City Centre.

Where to stay in Vienna

I usually stay at Quartier Belvedere next to the Hauptbahnhof, but this time the room rates were extortionate, so I opted for an alternative. I had been wanting to try the Apartment Hotel Rioca in District 3, Landstraße, for a while.

Although it wasn’t as luxurious as Joyn (now Adina Apartments), it was cosy and had everything I needed. Like Joyn, the hotel had a generous laundrette in the basement with washing machines and dryers. My room was clean, and I slept well. The only downside was the location. While the area was quiet and residential, it was further out and not as convenient for quick midday returns. Compared to Joyn, Rioca felt more like just a place to sleep rather than providing the familiarity of Vienna that I know and love. It was a good experience to try new accommodation, but I’ll look for something in my usual area next time.

BOOK *Apartment Hotel Rioca

There is a 10% city tax on your final amount. 

What else is there to know about Vienna before I travel home?

• Many cafés now have a strict laptop and wifi ban.
• No matter how often I visit Vienna, there is always something going on. The city has such an excellent events calendar. 
• Vienna is once again rightfully voted as the most liveable city in the world. 
• Always visit the City Information at The Town Hall to collect new material and blog research. It is a huge treasure trove and resource.

More Resources on Art Nouveau in the Danube Region

• Subotica & Szeged: Good Neighbours. Information Leaflet or Our Borderless Art Nouveau.
• Art Nouveau in the Danube region, Interreg Danube project, Danube Transnational Programme, EU funded project.
• Exhibition “The Waves of Art Nouveau”, information panels as a PDF.
• Art Nouveau in the Danube Region, Youtube channel with some really good documentaries.

FAQs on my Eastern Europe Itinerary 

I understand this is quite a lengthy post, and you may have some quick questions about my Eastern Europe Itinerary. You can, of course, always come back to any section of my post and read in more detail what you’d need for your trip. If you have questions or need help, please get in touch and I’m happy to assist.

How easy was it to plan an Eastern Europe itinerary?

Planning this Eastern Europe itinerary was not as straightforward as I hoped it would be, due to the limited transportation links and rare direct connections. I got there in the end but it required a lot of prior research to ensure I got the most out of my time in Oradea, Budapest, Subotica and Vienna. Requests at local Tourist Information Centres resulted often in poor replies with little to no new information. Data regarding cafes and restaurants were outdated on Google Maps and required double-checking. The intense planning was all worth it as I got to experience some very unique destinations.

Is Eastern Europe solo travel friendly?

The Danube region is an extremely friendly area and it was a joy to travel solo in this part of the world. The general tone was friendly and accommodating, plus I learnt a tonne on this journey and already compiled a new list of destinations to see in the area. I will be back. 

Do they speak English in Eastern Europe?

All locals speak basic English and they make an effort to welcome strangers. Of course, a few phrases such as “Thank You” and “Please” in the local tongue always go a long way and help connect to the locals.  

Thanks so much for reading. If you’ve enjoyed my Eastern Europe itinerary travelling in the Danube region and would like to support my blog & research, you can do so via Buy Me a Coffee.

Till next time,

Carolin

You may also enjoy my other content: 

• 3 Week Itinerary For An Epic Baltics Tour & Finland Trip
• A Complete 4 Day Vienna Itinerary For First Time Visitors
• Best 15 Activities and Free Museums in Vienna
• Subotica (coming soon)
• Budapest art nouveau self-guided walk (coming soon)